Source: Synthesis
Ferulic acid occurs in nature, in plants as a free acid or as ester mainly in seeds, in leaves and in barks. Ferulic peels are superficial. Ferulic acid has strong antioxidant properties which fight against reactive oxygen species (ROS), repairing DNA damages. Its depigmenting effects derive from its function as a non-competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase.
The main indication of ferulic acid is photo ageing with benefits in melasma, acne, and rosacea. It is able to reduce signs of photo ageing such as fine wrinkles, promote even skin tone by reducing hyperpigmentation, and return skin to its natural brightness by stimulating cell replacement.
Overall skin texture is said to improve, and the treatment boosts hydration by increasing the level of ceramides in the skin to help prevent water loss. For patients with rosacea and acne, the treatment can reduce sebum production, improve the appearance of scars, and diminish pore size.
In daily skincare Ferulic acid is also interesting providing the following benefits: - a sunscreen effect
- an antioxidative effectiveness
- an anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial effectiveness
Sunscreen effect:
Ferulic acid and its esters like chemical sunscreen agents have a phenyl-2-propene structure that means, they have a vinylgroup at the benzene ring, which is strongly absorbing UV-light.
By this absorption the stabilized phenoxy radical will be formed and later on a cis-trans-isomerization will occur. By this mode of action ferulic acid in barks, leaves and seeds is protecting the plant from the harmful rays of sunlight. Ferulic acid and their esters show a maximum of UV-absorption at 280 nm and 340 nm. By addition of 0.2 - 0.5 % Ferulic acid a sun protection factor of 3 - 5 can be achieved.
Antioxidative effectiveness:
An addition of Ferulic acid is able to prevent the development of radicals started by oxygen and UV-radiation. Each reactive radical Lx or L-O-O-x (lipoper- oxyl radical) which might get contact with a molecule of ferulic acid abstracts a hydrogen atom from the phenolic group of ferulic acid.
A phenoxyradical is generated, which shows a high resonance stabilization. Therefore ferulic acid is approved as an antioxidant agent in cosmetics and in food. Ferulic acid and amino acids or dipeptides form mixtures with synergistic antioxidative effects against peroxidation of unsaturated fatty acids and fats of all kind.
Anti-inflammatory effectiveness:
The effect of many anti-inflammatory agents is based on their influence on mediators of inflammable reactions. Oxygen radicals belong to these mediators. The anti-inflammatory effectiveness of ferulic acid is based on its antioxidative potential. Ferulic acid is able to interfere in the cycles which is responsible for acne and oily skin.
Indications for ferulic acid peels:
1. Epidermal dehydration (dry, thirsty, flaky skin)
2. Photo-aging (skin aging caused by excessive UV-radiation)
3. Epidermal hyperpigmentation (pigmentation spots on the outer layer of skin) 4. Fine lines and superficial wrinkles
5. Loose, sagging skin
6. Dull uneven skin tone
7. Rosacea
Properties of ferulic acid peels
Due to its composition, the main indication of this system is the photo ageing with benefits in melasma, acne, and rosacea. It is able to reduce signs of photo ageing such as fine wrinkles, promote even skin tone by reducing hyperpigmentation, and return skin to its natural brightness by stimulating cell replacement.
Overall skin texture is said to improve, and the treatment boosts hydration by increasing the level of ceramides in the skin to help prevent water loss. For patients with rosacea and acne, the treatment can reduce sebum production, improve the appearance of scars, and diminish pore size. This peel is also indicated as a preparation for other aesthetic procedures.
Ferulic peel is a very potent and safe peel system. Beginning with the first treatment, patients report that their skin feels smoother and tighter and looks lighter with a youthful glow. Immediately visible results in the skin colour improvement, making this peel one of the most valuable and beneficial products to clients.
Ferulic peel can be used in all seasons (including summer) and with all skin types and races. It offers a simple, practical, and safe new way to perform peeling treatments at the doctor’s office, making it possible to achieve excellent results in a very short time. It will not produce burning or itching during application. But home-care treatment based on ferulic acid boosts the results, increasing long term effectiveness.
